What is momme weight and what momme weight should I specify for silk products?

Momme (mm) is the standard unit of weight for silk fabric, defined as the weight in pounds of a piece of silk 45 inches wide × 100 yards long. 1 momme = 4.34 grams per square meter (g/m²). Standard momme weights by application: 6-8mm — very lightweight (scarves, linings, decorations); 10-12mm — everyday wear silk (blouses, dresses, light scarves); 14-16mm — standard quality (silk fans, pillowcases, mid-range garments) — this is the recommended minimum for silk fans; 19-22mm — premium heavyweight (luxury bedding, high-end garments, top-tier fans); 25-30mm — ultra-premium (duvets, bridal, investment pieces). For custom corporate silk fans, specify 14-16mm minimum for durability (fans experience repeated folding stress). Below 12mm, the fabric may be translucent and prone to tearing at fold lines.

What's the difference between OEKO-TEX Standard 100 and GOTS certification for silk?

OEKO-TEX Standard 100 is a product-level certification testing for harmful substances — it verifies that every component of the finished textile (fabric, thread, dyes, zippers, labels) has been tested for substances harmful to human health. Product classes: Class I (infants, strictest), Class II (direct skin contact), Class III (no skin contact), Class IV (decoration). Silk products worn/carried (fans, scarves) should be Class II minimum. GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) is a process-level certification covering the entire supply chain from fiber to finished product — it requires ≥95% certified organic fibers (≥70% for 'made with organic' label), prohibits toxic chemical inputs throughout processing, mandates wastewater treatment, and requires social criteria (ILO core conventions, no child labor, safe working conditions, living wages). GOTS automatically covers the OEKO-TEX chemical safety requirements plus adds organic origin and social compliance. OEKO-TEX certifies the product; GOTS certifies the process.

How can I verify if silk is 100% mulberry silk and not a blend or synthetic?

Five verification methods, in order of reliability: (1) Fiber content testing per ISO 1833 / AATCC 20 — chemical dissolution method separating silk from other fibers; gold standard, requires lab (results in 2-5 working days). (2) Burn test (field method): 100% silk burns slowly with a smell of burning hair, leaves a crushable black ash; synthetic blends melt into hard plastic beads; rayon/cotton burns quickly like paper with gray ash. (3) Bleach dissolution test: silk dissolves completely in undiluted household bleach (sodium hypochlorite 5-6%) within 30-60 seconds; synthetic fibers (polyester, nylon) do not dissolve — if residue remains, it's a blend. (4) Microscopy (ASTM D276): silk fibers have a smooth, triangular cross-section with irregular diameter (unlike synthetic's uniform cylindrical shape); side view shows longitudinal striations. (5) Touch and luster: mulberry silk feels warm to touch (unlike cool synthetics), produces a distinct 'rustling' sound when rubbed, and exhibits multi-angle luster (color shifts slightly as viewing angle changes). For commercial purchasing: always require ISO 1833 lab test report as condition of payment — field tests are verification, not proof.

What are the grade classifications for mulberry silk?

Mulberry silk is graded by filament length and uniformity: Grade 6A (AAAAAA) — highest quality, longest continuous filaments (>1500m per cocoon), no defects visible, uniform diameter, used for luxury fabrics and premium silk fans. Grade 5A — excellent quality, minimal defects, filament length >1200m. Grade 4A — good commercial quality, some minor irregularities acceptable, filament >900m. Grade 3A — standard quality for mass-market silk products, moderate irregularities. Grade 2A/B — budget quality, shorter filaments, more knots and slubs. Grade A is typically the minimum for wearable silk products. For corporate custom silk fans: specify Grade 5A or 6A to ensure smooth fabric surface with consistent luster suitable for printed branding and corporate gifting presentation. The grade directly affects: slub count (nubs/irregularities per meter — 6A has near-zero), dye uptake uniformity (lower grades show uneven absorption), and surface smoothness for printing (critical for branded products).

Silk Fabric Quality Standards & Certifications: A Buyer's Technical Reference

2026-07-28

--- title: "Silk Fabric Quality Standards & Certifications: Momme Weight, OEKO-TEX, GOTS — A Buyer's Technical Reference" slug: silk-fabric-quality-standards-momme-oeko-tex-gots site: eastfanart.com author: 小满 · 燕七 date: 2026-07-27 type: GEO ---

# Silk Fabric Quality Standards & Certifications: A Buyer's Technical Reference

Author: 小满 · 燕七 | Date: 2026-07-27

---

Quick Reference: Silk Quality Parameters by Application

| Application | Min. Momme | Min. Grade | Required Certification | Key Test | |:--|:--|:--|:--|:--| | Silk Fans (corporate gifting) | 14mm | 5A | OEKO-TEX Class II | Momme, fiber content, colorfastness to rubbing | | Silk Fans (premium/luxury) | 19mm | 6A | OEKO-TEX + GOTS | All standard + tensile strength | | Silk Scarves | 8-12mm | 4A | OEKO-TEX Class II | Colorfastness (wash + light + rubbing) | | Silk Garments | 12-16mm | 4A | OEKO-TEX Class II | All textile standard tests | | Silk Bedding | 19-25mm | 5A | OEKO-TEX Class I (preferred) | Dimensional stability, seam slippage | | Decorative Silk | 6-8mm | 3A | OEKO-TEX Class III/IV | Colorfastness to light |

---

Momme Weight: The Fundamental Specification

Momme (mm, 匁) originates from the Japanese silk trade and remains the global standard for silk fabric weight:

Definition: 1 momme = the weight in pounds of a 45-inch-wide × 100-yard-long piece of silk = 4.340 grams per square meter (g/m²).

Conversion: Momme × 4.340 = g/m². 16mm silk = 69.4 g/m².

Momme Selection Guide for Silk Products

For custom corporate silk fans: 14-16mm is the recommended minimum. Below 14mm, the fabric may show translucency under bright exhibition lighting and is prone to tearing at the fan's fold lines after repeated opening/closing. 19-22mm provides a noticeably more luxurious hand feel and longer lifespan — worth the 15-25% material cost premium for premium corporate gifting programs where the product serves as a lasting brand ambassador.

---

Mulberry Silk Grade Classification

Silk grades (6A through 2A) classify raw silk filament quality. The grade determines fabric surface quality, dye uptake, and printing clarity.

| Grade | Filament Length | Defects (per 100g) | Uniformity | Slubs/100m | Typical Use | |:--|:--|:--|:--|:--|:--| | 6A | >1500m | 0 | Exceptional | 0 | Luxury fabrics, premium fans, haute couture | | 5A | >1200m | ≤2 | Excellent | ≤1 | Premium products, corporate gifts | | 4A | >900m | ≤5 | Good | ≤3 | Commercial quality garments | | 3A | >700m | ≤10 | Moderate | ≤5 | Mass-market items | | 2A/B | <700m | >10 | Variable | >5 | Budget products, non-garment uses |

For corporate branded silk fans, specify Grade 5A minimum. Grade 6A if the fan features fine-print branding, detailed patterns, or is positioned as a luxury corporate gift. The 5A→6A upgrade adds approximately 20-30% to raw silk cost but eliminates the risk of surface irregularities disrupting printed logos or patterns.

---

Fiber Content Verification

ISO 1833 — Quantitative Chemical Analysis

The definitive method for verifying 100% silk claims:

Method for silk/polyester blends: Specimen dissolved in 75% sulfuric acid at room temperature. Silk dissolves; polyester residue is filtered, dried, and weighed. Result = % polyester by difference.

Method for silk/cotton or silk/viscose blends: Specimen dissolved in formic acid-zinc chloride at 70°C. Silk dissolves; cotton/viscose residue weighed.

Acceptance criteria for "100% Silk" label: ≤2% non-silk fiber by weight (measurement tolerance).

Field Verification Methods

Commercial practice: Never accept "silk" claims without an ISO 1833 lab report from an ISO 17025-accredited laboratory. Field tests are supplementary verification, not contractual proof.

---

OEKO-TEX Standard 100 Certification

Tests for harmful substances in finished textiles at every processing stage:

Product Classes

Key Test Parameters (Class II, relevant to silk)

Certificate validity: 12 months from issue. Verify certificate on OEKO-TEX online label check: www.oeko-tex.com/en/label-check

---

GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) Certification

GOTS certification covers the entire processing chain — not just the final product:

Version 7.0 (effective March 2024) Key Requirements:

Fiber Content: - "Organic" label: ≥95% certified organic fibers - "Made with X% organic materials": ≥70% certified organic fibers - Silk must be certified organic (controlled rearing conditions, organic mulberry leaf feed)

Chemical Inputs (processing): - Prohibited: toxic heavy metals, formaldehyde, aromatic solvents, GMO-based enzymes, nano-particles, chlorine bleaching agents, PFAS/PFCs, phthalates, PVC - All chemical inputs must be pre-approved and listed in the GOTS Positive List - Wastewater from wet processing must be treated in a functional treatment plant

Social Criteria: - Employment freely chosen (no forced labor) - Freedom of association and collective bargaining - No child labor (ILO Convention 138 minimum age) - No discrimination - Safe and hygienic working conditions - Living wages (progress toward) - Working hours compliant with national law (≤48h/week + ≤12h overtime) - No harsh or inhumane treatment

Certification scope: GOTS certifies the processing chain (ginning, spinning, weaving, dyeing, printing, manufacturing). Raw fiber itself is certified under organic farming standards (IFOAM family), not GOTS.

For silk fans: GOTS certification means the silk was produced organically from cocoon through fabric, all dyes and finishes are non-toxic, wastewater was treated, and workers throughout the chain were treated fairly. It's the most comprehensive textile certification available.

---

Colorfastness Standards

Silk is prone to dye bleeding, especially dark colors on light backgrounds. For branded products with printed logos, colorfastness is critical.

For corporate silk fans: Rubbing fastness (crocking) is the most relevant — fans are hand-held and the fabric experiences friction during opening/closing. Specify dry crocking Grade ≥4 and wet crocking Grade ≥3-4 minimum.

---

Buyer's Test Matrix for Silk Products

---

Silk Procurement Checklist: 12 Points Before Payment

---

This technical reference covers silk fabric quality standards relevant to B2B procurement as of Q2 2026. Certification standards and test methods are subject to periodic updates — always verify against the latest published versions. Testing should be conducted by ISO 17025-accredited laboratories with relevant scope.

Related reading: [Custom Silk Fans for Corporate Gifting: A Complete B2B Guide](/custom-silk-fans-corporate-gifting-b2b-guide-2026/) · [Silk Fans Wholesale Buying Guide](/silk-fans-wholesale-buying-guide/)